Joseph Phelp's Insignia and Esribe dictated the wine zeitgeist on my Hollywood farm town girl palate long before I began educating myself about California's certified wines. Back then I was in it for the road trips and the wine education. I was just learning what my tastes were and like most people, didn't know that there is a difference between certified WINES and certified VINEYARDS. But when I happened upon Joseph Phelps Vineyards http://jpvwines.com I knew right away that I had found something special and I asked right away if they perchance grew organically on the estate. The pourer assured me with pride that Joseph Phelps practically introduced biodynamics to the Napa Valley. And of course, I was delighted. The next visit, a year later, I learned that Joe Phelps and his son, Bill Phelps, had just opened a biodynamically grown Chardonay and Pinot Noir vineyard in Freestone - closer to the Pacific on the Sonoma Coast where those cool weather grapes really thrive. I tasted there as soon as the tasting room was open and although the farm house tasting room was a more country than warranted, I was again stunned by the wines. Over the years, Phelps wines have not changed much. But why change the magick formula? This wine is stunning and no matter how often I visit, I still want another pour.

Joseph Phelps vineyards indeed helped define the terrior potential of Napa Valley wines in the 1970's and pioneered the popularization of Napa Valley as a precious, international wine growing region of note. Reintroducing Syrrah in 1974 and rich Rhone varietals including also Viognier and Chateauneuf-du-Pape. 90% of Phelps wines are estate-grown and that my friend, assures the discerning eco conisouier that the growing practices the vineyard practices are actually in the wine being sipped. But although Joseph Phelps Vineyards might have launched the wine making reputation of the area, it's difficult to say if they've done the same for growing practices. Joseph Phelps Vineyards isn't certified organic OR biodynamic. Not wine and not vineyard. Although I have been assured that he was of the first natural growers in the region and touts on the website having been in biodynamic transition since 2001, I know that like organics, the certification only takes 3 years. So what gives? Why is Freestone, the 100% biodynamic vineyard from conception in 2007 not certified yet? I can't help but think back to the conventional pourer with the loud opine - he: "certification does not mean anything - how one grows means everything". And myself: "I wish to communicate through a certification process so I don't have to monitor the farm's practices personally myself." Was he right in saying certification is a marketing technique or was I right to want some standard of assurance when it comes to the things that are important to me.



Because Joseph Phelps Vineyards visibly recycles, utilizes compostable-plastic single-serving ware when guest events require and diverted from the landfill over 600lbs of shrink wrap used in transport in 2009, I do know that the vineyard is up to green things. Joseph Phelps Vineyards installed solar panels in the Innisfree production building and retrofitted the company's lighting to be more energy efficient. The landscaping is composed mainly of drought resistant, native plants. And I brought my binoculars to Joseph Phelps grandiose tasting room specifically because the wild life is so abundant, it's obvious the birds and insects are pleased with his farming methods. Again, to Joseph Phelps credit, this vineyards touts one certification rarer than even biodynamic or organic: the Fish Friendly Farming Certification. Properties that are managed to restore fish and wildlife habitat and improve water quality voluntary apply and in my opinion, the Fish Friendly Farming Certification is one standard I'd like to see more farmers dedicating themselves to. Water and wildlife. Through my binoculars it was obvious that that certification was real: a mile away - crystal clear - a tiny compost heap, a miniature chicken coupe, dozens of far-off teeny fruit trees and so many birds between here and there that it was distracting to my wine tasting. So many birds singing and rows and rows of wine grape vines so happy to live where they do, being valued as they are, raised obviously with attention to health and simplicity. In some rare cases, this is all the certification that is needed. A blessing bestowed upon those who go to visit the vineyards of the wines they adore. I can not recommend any experience higher.





http://jpvwines.com
http://demeter-usa.org
http://fishfreindlyfarming.org

0 comments Links to this post