Raw Inebriation
August 05, 2003
Tonya Kay, table for one, though to my surprise I would not be dining alone.

The restaurant seemed like a bridge spanning the vast ocean between Beverly Hills and Maui. The space had flourished since its grand opening in March, which I had the pleasure of attending by some synchronisitous coincidence. I was delighted, as was the rest of the high-maintenance clientele sporting expensive shades and pointy shoes, with the eccentric tropical bouquets saturating the bright room, leaving no corner or window unaffected. Pleased again with the addition of an outdoor dining area, satistfied deeply by the three-times expanded menu, and moved to giggles upon discovering the perhaps perfect date---poised sensually, confidently---waiting seductively for my arrival.

Yes, table for one quickly led to an unexpected whirlwind of romantic ecstasy. We spoke not a word, but appreciated the entire dining experience at Juliano’s Raw in silence. Amongst the potted cyclamen and hibiscus, Tristen, our waitress, straight from the islands herself, wove a genuinely amiable web around our table. Knowing absolutely everything abut the menu from memory and genuine interest, Tristen offered graceful recommendations from behind the roots of an orchid draped low from the ceiling. In fact, Juliano’s exquisite taste in employee personnel is a major reason Raw is not just another fine-dining-foo-foo-fad eatery in Santa Monica, but a down-to-earth-and-worth-the-price culinary experience.

My partner and I began with the fresh juice of beet, apple, ginger and lime to whet our appetites, becoming quickly intoxicated by the combination of flavors and joy of conscious eating. The Sea Witch soup was by far our favorite of the evening, what with avocado, seaweed, and cumin leaving the stomach stimulated in anticipation of the main course. And the absolutely unique and surprisingly convincing entree of “fish sticks” made of dehydrated walnut pure, rolled in sprouted rye breading and served with a thick macadamia tartar with fresh lemon, left us satisfied and thankful for the gift of taste buds in general. And the ultimate desert finale, I could not resist sliding my partner in for closer appreciation---peach crepes bursting with a fluffy, warm crème---all raw ingredients which will remain a delicious mystery to two mesmerized lovers for all eternity.

Juliano’s Raw could not have been sweeter with each plate a presentation of edible art, more satisfying with each bite offering undertones of fresh flower petals, or more genuine with the day’s organics delivered directly to the front door via a groovy Scooby Doo hippie van.

Leaving my date after an afternoon like this was difficult, but necessary of course, in the end. If I could have pocketed her without guilt or without conscience broken her off, I might have nested her in my locks for an olfactory inebriation which would have persisted surely into the morn. It was with strength that I stood and turned from the scene, knowing well that in a moment another was to take my place. Hoping only that they too might appreciate fully the raw meal they are about to consume and the heavenly companionship of a very sacred flower...

The Stargazer Lily.
Table for one.








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